Split days 2 and 3
Warning: this is a very long post!
We did not have set plans for Split. We got a late start on day two and started the day with a walk to marjan hill for a beautiful view of Split. We got to see the Crkva Sv. Frane (St Francis Church) on the way and walked into the very small cloisters. We saw a relic dating back to the 4th century.
We then headed to the port wanting to go to one of the many Dalmatian islands called Vis but all of the ferries were done for the day. We opted to go to Hvar which was a shorter ferry ride and spent a little over 5 hours on the beautiful and totally laid back island.
“History has left numerous traces on Hvar, perhaps more than on any other Adriatic island, due to its exceptionally significant location in the centre of main nautical pathways. The constant conflicts for dominance that were taking place in this region between different conquerors are a confirmation of the significance and value that this territory had from ancient times.
The first proof of life in this area goes back to pre-historic age when a specific Hvar Culture was defined (3500-2500 B.C.) with the discoveries of painted ceramics in Markova and Grapčeva Caves. It must be noted that the oldest depiction of a boat in Europe was discovered right on the fragments of a piece of pottery found in the Grapčeva Cave. The City of Pharos in the area of todayʼs Stari Grad was founded by Ionian Greeks in 385 B.C. After this, the history of Hvar was marked by changes of numerous different civilisations and their influences, so in 219 B.C. Hvar was conquered by the Romans, who had left a rich heritage of country mansions on the island.”
Read more here:
https://www.visit-hvar.com/history-of-island-hvar
More on the Dalmation Islands
The Dalmatian Islands are a group of islands along the Adriatic Sea coastline of Croatia, primarily within the Dalmatia region. They are known for their stunning beauty, rich history, and diverse offerings, ranging from lively nightlife to serene, unspoiled beaches.
Major Islands:
- Hvar: Known for its sunniest climate in Europe.
- Brač: Home to the tallest peak in Croatia, Zlatni Rat beach.
- Vis: A peaceful, less developed island with a rich history.
- Korčula: The birthplace of Marco Polo.
- Pag: Famous for its vibrant nightlife.
- Dugi Otok: Characterized by its long shape and beautiful beaches.
- Mljet: A nature-lover’s paradise with national parks and lush greenery.
- Rab: Located further north in the region.
- Lastovo: A remote island with unique chimneys, called “fumari,” and picturesque vineyards.
79 total
I leaned that they called this area Dalmatia and it was part of the Venetian Empire. I’m talking many many centuries ago!
I’m sure can predict that the first up was eating lunch. We found a totally off the tourist track restaurant up a hill that was under the olive trees called Ero. We are still amazed at the perfect English that all of the Croatians speak. It makes total sense since their livelihood is tourism and honestly I would guesstimate that 90% of the tourists are Americans. And a ton of them are probably study abroad college kids.
I took a photo of a map and counted over ten churches. I only peaked into one.
After lunch we were on a mission to kayak and find beaches. Sadly it was too windy to kayak and we only had time to see the beaches on the side of the island where the ferry dropped us off. The island is very big and it would have taken an hour to walk across. Our waiter told us not to get on a bus.
We actually both got in the water even though it was cool and very windy today but the sun felt so nice.
The beach was next to a beach club where a wedding was happening. Beautiful setting and yes I took some photos.
We saw huge expensive yachts all over the port. Would love to know whose they are…
We returned to Split on the very bumpy ferry. The wind was whipping and the waves were huge. I wasn’t nervous but I did locate my life jacket lol.
We got a delish kebab in a tortilla. The kids that were working told us they speak 8 languages and I believe it. They told us they are mostly French tourists.
Day three in Split
Almost went to Krka national Park but we opted to not drive 3 hours to and from and get to know Split better. We are happy with our decision bc we fell in love with Split.
Our room is in a great location in Old Town and a stones throw to the waterfront and to the Diocletian Palace.
We did wonder around the palace the first evening but we really dove in today.
We started by walking through the gates to a “basement” of relics that took us through the palace wall.
Before I go further, I copied the Diocletian history here.
“Diocletian, Roman emperor from 284 to 305 CE, is known for his reforms and the Tetrarchy, a system of co-rule that helped stabilize the empire after the Crisis of the Third Century. He also presided over the last major persecution of Christians. After retiring, Diocletian built a palace in his Dalmatian homeland, now Split, Croatia, where he spent the last years of his life. “
So inside the walls lies what is left of palace.
There is a large cathedral, that of St Domnius.
I copied the history here.
“Saint Domnius was a 4th-century Christian bishop of Salona (modern-day Solin), who was martyred during the persecution of Christians by Emperor Diocletian. He is considered the patron saint of Split, and his name is associated with the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, which stands within the walls of Diocletian’s Palace. “
Paige and I read that even though Diocletian killed St Domnius, he did not really want to but was persuaded to by his staff. They were Pagans.
The St Domnius cathedral was purposefully placed in the palace grounds to show that Christianity won. Diocletian was said to be responsible for stabilizing Rome. Because the Roman empire was so big, he knew that one person couldn’t like handle the whole thing so he broke it up into four. He was responsible for the eastern part. The one who he made his son was responsible for the western part and it was he who hated Christians and said that they were screwing up their religion of paganism. That was the beginning of the executions of Christians. For this Diocletian was erased from history in a sense. The next ruler of Rome was Constantine and he was the emperor that accepted Christianity. Constantine’s support for Christianity significantly impacted the Church’s growth and development. He legalized Christianity within the Roman Empire and, after his conversion, became a patron of the faith.
Make sure you google this bc I could be wrong lol. This is history of the Cathedral and St Lucy the Martyr who Diocletian also killed.
https://www.seagull-accommodation.com/what-to-do-in-split/cathedral-of-saint-domnius-in-split-all-you-need-to-know/
I learned a lot of history in two days. Basically Split looks like Rome.
Our ticket allowed us to go into the cathedral, walk up the tower for amazing photos, go to a treasury museum of relics from 300 AD and beyond. We also got to see the crypt of St Lucia. And go to the temple of Jupiter.
The Temple of Jupiter is an ancient Roman temple and was the centerpiece of Diocletian’s Palace. Like the rest of the palace complex, it was built between 295 and 305. Though it is generally referred to as the Temple of “Jupiter, the matter of its original dedication is inconclusive, and alternative propositions that see it as the temple of Januarius or Asclepius have also been put forward by scholars. Remember they were all pagans.
Whatever the case, the ancient temple was afterwards converted into a Christian baptistery dedicated to St John the Baptist, which might have happened as early as the sixth century.
Today, the former temple houses a thirteenth century makeshift baptismal font that was created from eleventh century spolia, as well as two sarcophagi that were used for burials of medieval archbishops John II (10th century) and Lawrence († 1099). The baptistery also houses a large bronze sculpture of St John the Baptist created by the twentieth century sculptor Ivan Meštrović.”
We were starting to get hungry after all of this history and walking but a tower. We headed in the direction of some public beaches but had lunch on the way. (A very non traditional Croatian dish, poke bowls).
We walked by the very crowded beach called Bacvice. It’s where the game of picigin started. We bought a ball to play. We decided to keep walking and made it to a beach called Kupaliste. It was very empty and very beautiful. We both got into the water but Paige swam. I did not bc I’m a baby, the water was cold.
We headed back and stopped for a coke and a lemonade by the marina. We came back to our place and had a leftover sandwich then headed out for gelato, one of 100 gelato shops. The crowds were big filled the many many restaurants and the town was beautiful all lit up. A symphony was playing in the palace grounds.
We will miss Split. We are on to Montenegro tomorrow.
Walking up Marjan Hill and ferry to Hvar.
